Bike touring Canada through the pristine Rocky Mountains has been a lifelong passion, be it pedalling through the picturesque woods, trekking up and over the emerald-coloured lakes of Banff National Park or venturing deep into the rocky, rooty, technical slopes of Banff’s neighbour — Kananaskis Provincial Park. If you are looking for an exciting bike touring or mountain biking travel experience, this is an often overlooked travel experience during winter as most people are there seeking Nordic skiing adventures.
In this article, we will explore a little about what it’s like to adapt to winter Fat Bike riding and touring through Canada’s Rockies, explore this amazing style of riding, how we deal with the cold, and what gear is needed to get out and give it a try!
My perennial struggle is, as with many other cyclists in four-season locales, that by the time my fitness level improves each year, the season is quickly over and it is time to pack away the bike for six months.
The answer to that struggle came when I test-piloted my brother’s amazing Rocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike, Equipped with enormous five-inch wide, 27.5″ studded tires. At first apprehensive, a quick thirty-second lap piqued my interest and I was quickly sold on the concept… but then again, how would I deal with the bloody cold?
Bike Touring Canada in the winter in Canmore, Banff and Kananaskis
A short thirty-five minutes to the west of my home in the province of Alberta is Kananaskis Provincial Park, adjacent to the world-renowned Banff National Park — home of course to the famous Banff Springs Hotel, Lake Louise and the incredibly popular Moraine Lake.
The beauty of this region is that we get four proper seasons of weather, with lengthy spring and summer evenings due to our somewhat higher latitude. That in turn allows for nice long days on the trail and an astonishing 333 days of sunshine yearly. The range of temperatures in the area can vary from up to the high +30 Celsius range in summer to the low -30 Celsius range in Winter.
As the elevation in the area is getting pretty high — Canmore and Banff sit at around 1300 metres — the Rockies do of course get a lot of snow from November through April. At their worst, temperatures can dive to an unbearable -39 Celsius, but also quickly rebound to a balmy +5 or 6 Celsius. Don’t laugh, that is T-shirt weather after such cold!
If you are interested in exciting biking adventure destinations, you may also find my article on Bike touring the Sand Dunes of Holland interesting as well!
How Does Fat Bike Riding on a Metre of Packed Snow Compare to ‘Regular’ Biking?
The concept of this type of bike riding over deep snow is in fact predicated on the kindness of others. Even with colossal wheels with 5-inch wide tires, and tire pressures kept staggeringly low at 3-6 psi (0.2-0.4 bar), trails are not ridable, or even approachable without a fair amount of preparation. Local trail societies and biking groups will typically organise snowshoeing treks or riders on ski-doos will pack the trails first, much like cross-country ski trails.
When the trails are well groomed, however, the riding can be amazing. New features form like jumps and new berms, the speeds can get incredibly fast on the downhills, and even the odd crash might be a bit more tolerable because you are falling into, well, snow!
I’ve measured on my Strava app some top downhill speeds of 50-60 km on nicely packed trails, and I am admittedly a pretty slow rider!
With the floating effect of the tires, it’s possible to simply cut your own path if the snow is not too soft adding a new level of exploration to mountain and trail biking.
Tempting Fate on the Icy Climbs and Slick Descents
Riding deep in the mountains of Alberta’s Kananaskis Provincial Park, you’ll find trails of all skill levels open in the winter. Some of the most demanding downhill trails can be attempted on Fat Bikes with the addition of good-quality studded tires. The handling on steep descents is truly remarkable, and braking performance in packed snow is on par with good, packed summer trails. The exception is when the trails get iced over during the thaw-freeze cycle, riding these takes more than a bit of a delicate hand on the brakes.
Riding one evening in complete darkness with my local cycling enthusiast group, our pack of riders came to an extremely steep and windy chute. With only our high-powered bike lights providing spotty illumination, it was definitely a challenge. A lot of whoops and hollering of excitement turned quickly to sudden panic as the rider in front of me went head over heels down a roughly 30-degree slope in the dark. No serious injuries, but a lot of blood on the snow reminded us that there is some pretty hard stuff under that snow. I once read “A man and his bike are soon separated!”
In order to take those fast and twisty descents mean that you need to put the work in on the climbs, and in the winter these machines do a fantastic job of putting torque to the ground. The one piece of hardware I found to be a major differentiator is having a good ‘dropper’ seat post. At the touch of a button, you can instantly lower your seat. This helps enormously with keeping stable on icy climbs, especially where footing is sketchy. Often your bike floats over the deep snow but a boot may sink 20cm! That dropper will get you that much closer to the ground.
What Gear is Needed for Winter Fat Bike Touring
Biking Gear
The Bike: Depending on the type of riding you plan on doing you will need a good quality bike with a quality drive train — definitely not department store quality gear. The entry point I would say carries SRAM GX or Shimano Deore level kit. If you are travelling on vacation or visiting the area, there are great options for rentals either in Calgary, Canmore, Banff or near all the hills.
Stopping power: Good brakes are important, you need to be able to have a good deal of modulation so you don’t end up skidding out sideways. These minimal specs are especially important if you plan to take a 25 km plus trek into the back woods in the deep of winter.
Dropper Post: As mentioned, The one piece of hardware I found essential is a good ‘dropper’ seat post. This helps enormously with keeping stable on icy climbs and I wouldn’t think of riding without one, even though I used to be old school and scoffed at the idea. Droppers are usually equipped on better quality Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes but can be added to existing bikes. Check out the PNW lines for good-quality aftermarket gear.
Tires/Tyres: For steep Climbs and gnarly descents, studded tires are a must, these can be upwards of $250 CAD each but are the critical link for added traction and stopping power. I’ve used my Maxxis Colossus tires un-studded and they work well, but the studs really improve performance. I now ride Bontrager Narwhals in the snow and the Maxxis in the dry season. The downside to studded is increased drag and casing weight. So what, you’ve got strong legs!
Lighting: With the days so much shorter, you really need a high-powered light to extend your riding day. A good light can easily illuminate a path 30 metres ahead of you, and when riding with others provides a great pathway effect of lighting.
Winter Protective clothing
When I started riding in the winter I really had no idea where to go for winter clothing advice. A search of biking websites was not overly helpful but after a lot of research, I did find a couple of principles that you need to apply and the old adage “dress in layers” is important.
Lightweight, above-the-ankle boots that are waterproof are a must. Leave your clipless pedals at home! Wool Socks are wonderful to wick away moisture. Thermal long underwater under your riding pants works great to add layers of warmth. I have found the Fox Ranger line is great if you leave enough room for the thermal underlayer.
Gloves rated for at least -30c, face and ear covering like a thin balaclava that fits under helmet keep your ears warm and cheeks a little less rosy. For a jacket, I like a super light down jacket (which doesn’t need to be overly expensive) paired with a long T-shirt, plus a heavier sweatshirt to add layers. The important this is to keep covered with no exposed skin. You will find you get very hot after a few miles of climbing if you’ve done it right!
Maintenance of your Fat Bike Gear
Properly drying your clothes and bike itself is important between rides, preventing mould and mildew on clothes and corrosion and rust on your expensive bike. I have found that with the extra grip of the fat tires, you may go through chains faster than with a standard mountain bike. You may want to invest a few dollars in a chain checker.
Getting There – Travelling to Canada’s Kananaskis and Banff Parks
Kananaskis Park is located on the Easter Slopes of the Canadian Rocky Mountains, an easy 20-minute drive to the southwest of Calgary. The best entry point for Biking trails is through the town of Bragg Creek at the West Bragg Creek Day use area, or from south of town on Hwy 66. Great locations like Station Flats, Moose Mountain or Ing’s Mine have epic winter riding.
Calgary is served by The Calgary International Airport, or “YYC” as it is often referred to, which is served by over 20 airlines, including Air Canada, United, Delta, KLM, West Jet and more.
Don’t forget your Kananaskis Conservation Trail pass which is required to enter the park. You can purchase a daily pass for $15.75 CAD, Multi-day (no discount) or a yearly pass for $94.50 CAD.
Conclusion
If you are looking for a step out from a normal Ski Vacation or just want to keep exercising to keep your fitness level sharp over the winter, Fat Biking, especially in a winter wonderland like Alberta is an amazing and rewarding activity.
I’ve found that with the proper gear, and respecting the elements, as well as the environment, you will have an experience with the same riding-on-the-edge, adrenaline-raising power of summer riding. You may even find it a bit more thrilling!