Gouda Unveiled: Discovering Historic Charm in the Dutch Cheese Capital

Article updated for 2024.

Gouda, the enchanting, picturesque little city in South Holland is known worldwide for its iconic staple creamy and tasty Gouda cheese. While almost everyone is familiar with Gouda cheese, few know that it is also a small Dutch tourist city of 75,000 in the Netherlands and the namesake of the cheese.

Gouda has everything you think of when you picture an idyllic Dutch town. Due to its undeniable charm, Gouda is a favourite city in the Netherlands for so many visitors, myself included. A personal favourite of mine, It is one of the most charming little cities I’ve found touring the Netherlands. Also, they invented the Stroop Waffle!

Gouda is a must-see day trip when in the Netherlands. It’s an easy off-the-beaten-path day trip by rail or car from Den Haag (The Hague), Rotterdam, and Amsterdam and can easily be seen in under a day.

Tip: Combine a morning trip to Gouda with an afternoon and evening trip to Delft for the perfect day in the Netherlands.

How Do You Pronounce Gouda?

Well, unfortunately, we’ve all been saying it wrong – It’s not ‘Goo-da’, it’s actually pronounced ‘How-da’, with a slight roll of the ‘g’. Not to worry, outside of the Netherlands, the cheese is pronounced goo-da by nearly everyone!

Bicycles on Gouda's lovely canals - Gouda, Netherlands
Bicycles along Gouda’s lovely canals | Photo ©️ travellifebalance.com

Gouda’s Fascinating History

Having recently celebrated its 750th anniversary in 2022, Gouda has a long and interesting history as a market city, a prolific producer of pottery, and a centre of beer brewing. Gouda cheese, the product most closely associated with Gouda is one of the world’s oldest cheeses still in production.

Gouda has had a cheese market since the 12th century and today it’s one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Netherlands. Strangely, there never has been any cheese made commercially in Gouda. The city acquired exclusive marketing rights to cheese for the county of Holland in the Middle Ages. Eventually, the cheese became known as Gouda cheese, named after the market city of Gouda.

The best Gouda cheeses are farmer-made, unpasteurized cow’s milk, aged Gouda cheeses called Boerenkaas (Farmers’ cheese). Unfortunately, there are only a small number of multi-generational authentic cheese makers left in the country as most cheese is now mass-produced.

In addition to Cheese, or ‘Kaas’ in Dutch, the city was once known for beer making. In fact, in the year 1470 Gouda had 200 active breweries that produced over 15 million litres of beer annually. Make sure to grab a glass of Gouda Kuitbier, the traditional Gouda-made un-hopped beer while you are there.

The city of Gouda is also known for the Dutch Gouda Art Nouveau pottery ‘Plateel’ which is one of a kind, and quite valuable.

Interesting Fact: During the 1600’s they weighed over 300 Million Kilograms of Cheese In the Waag Weigh House!

Gouda, Netherlands the Stadhuis stands over the Saturday Market in the Markt square
Gouda’s Stadhuis — City Hall — stands over the Saturday market in the Markt square | Photo ©️ travellifebalance.com

Walking and Bike Touring Gouda

Biking Your Way Around Gouda

A wonderful way to experience Gouda is to rent a bicycle and ride through the skinny alleys and side streets of the town. Discover the little bridges and arches along the unique canal structure that make this compact city so special. The little streets are just perfect for riding like the locals.

Biking is best done outside of market days on Thursday (the ‘theatrical’ Tourist Cheese Auction) and Saturday the main farmer’s market in the square as those are the busiest days for tourists.

You can rent bikes in Gouda opposite Gouda’s central station at Keck Bikes, and grab a coffee while you are there. Stationsplein 1e – 2801 AK Gouda | Website

If you long to Bike Tour in the Netherlands, you might also be interested in checking out my article on biking the stunning sands dunes of Holland.

Walking Tours of Gouda

The best way to explore the Netherlands is on your feet. I love to explore the city and find my own way around, but for those that like a guide there are plenty of tourist maps and guided walking tours available. Look to the ‘VVV’ — the local tourist office — at their ‘Welcome to Gouda‘ website for more details on available walking tours.

Experience Gouda From the Water

For a completely different perspective of the city, explore the quaint little canals ‘Venice style’ by way of a Canal Tour. The unique nature of the canals here, to me, is reminiscent of the medieval canals that wind their way around Bruges in Belgium. You’ll see plenty of historic architecture dating back to the 1400s along with some interesting banter from the captain.

You can book 2024 canal tours of Gouda from April 20 – October 28. Tours are by Reederij de IJsel and are priced at €13,00 for adults and €6,50 for children. You can purchase tickets directly from the Reederij de IJsel, the boat company and canal tour company’s website.

Wheels of Gouda shown in Gouda's Waag Weigh House, now a museum Gouda, Netherlands.
Wheels of Gouda shown in Gouda’s ‘Waag’ Weigh House, now a museum in Gouda, Netherlands | Photo ©️ travellifebalance.com

Why is Dutch Gouda So Tasty?

Gouda is situated in a previously marshy area of the country that historically only supported the growth of grasses. However, it is that fresh grass that lends to the richness and buttery softness of Gouda Cheese in the mouth.

The good stuff is ‘Boerenkaas’, which is real authentic farmer’s cheese. The Boerenkaas Gouda cheese is formed in traditional large wooden moulds which act as insulation, keeping the temperature more steady than commercial stainless steel. The cheese can stay in the mould for up to 24 hours to form its 20kg weight into a wheel shape. The cheese is then bathed in a salt brine as the final step before aging to add flavour and develop the outer crust.

Aging the cheese allows the natural enzymes in the cheese to break down the proteins and develop the taste as the cheese ages. Young cheese can be ready in as little as 1-3 months, whereas old cheese can be aged for 7 years or more.

Sixth-generation cheese farmer’s Tip: Don’t eat the cheese directly from the refrigerator, let the cheese warm up for about an hour before eating it.

Things You Must See and Do in Gouda

Fuel yourself with some Friets (Dutch french fries) with a side of mayo like the Dutch do from a little streetside shop and set out to experience all the amazing sights and tastes that Gouda has to offer.

Eat Holland’s Must-try-treat Stroop Waffles

Originally called syrup waffles, the Stroop Waffle was invented in Gouda. Try a hot, fresh one, there is nothing like a hand-crafted waffle. Warm and filled with gooey syrupy goodness!

You can find Stroop Waffles and Syrup Waffles almost everywhere throughout the city centre, available in the markets and local shops. However, you can see how they are made and take a tour at Kamphuisen syrup waffle factory where they’ve made the Dutch treat for over 200 years.

You will even find an entire store of Stroop Waffle vending machines called the Stroop Waffle Wall!

Tip: For an amazing savoury snack, try one with Gouda cheese instead of syrup from the Saturday market!

Gouda City Hall (Stadhuis)

One of the most incredible ancient buildings in Gouda is the Stadhuis or old city hall. From the front, the building looks like a fairytale castle come to life. Built in 1448 it is one of the oldest Gothic buildings in the Netherlands.  The building is complete with traditional red Dutch shutters on its windows and is located directly across from the Waag Cheese Weigh House on Markt Square.

Amazing Fact: there is a full-size replica of this building in Japan at Huis ten Bosch theme park which replicates an entire Dutch canal city!

Gouda's City Hall (Stadhuis) in the market square
Gouda’s City Hall (Stadhuis) in the market square | Photo ©️ travellifebalance.com

Gouda’s Charming Cafés and Terraces

Cafés are in abundance in the city of Gouda. Scenic outdoor terraces can be found throughout the city centre waiting for you to soak up the amazing views. With such a picturesque landscape, everything about this town screams eat and drink outside!

The historic Markt Square offers a great selection of al fresco dining on its terraces overlooking the beautiful plaza.

For a less touristy and more upscale experience, try Restaurant De Kleischuur, (the Clay Shed), which features stunning views of the canals with a cozy interior and highly-rated cuisine. Open for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$ | Vest 2, Gouda, Netherlands | Website

Tour the Massive Medieval Church Sint Janskerk (St. Jans Chruch)

Get a peek inside this beautiful Gothic-style church built in the 15th century, famous for its beautiful stained-glass windows.

St. Jans Chruch, or Sint Janskerk as it is known in Dutch is the longest church in the country at 123 metres in length. It has 72 stained glass windows, installed between 1555-1571.  The building looks massive sitting in the little city centre.  Maybe you will get lucky and see a choir practice and hear some medieval music in the stunning acoustics!

Interesting fact: the Saint Jans Church is listed as one of the top 100 Dutch monuments.

Visit De Goudse Waag – Historical Cheese Weigh House

Gouda’s Waag or cheese Weigh House dates back to 1669 anchoring the Markt Square where it remains an important part of Gouda’s history. The Goudse Waag was used as the official weigh house for the city to levy taxes on the sale of cheese at the historic Gouda Cheese Market for hundreds of years.

Today the historic building is a museum and information centre where you can see the old scales, and purchase cheese and souvenirs. The museum tells of the importance of the dairy trade for the region and the history of the iconic Dutch Gouda cheese.

The old weigh scales for Gouda chees in the Waag, or Weigh House in Gouda
The old weigh scales for Gouda cheese in the Waag or Weigh House in Gouda | Photo ©️ travellifebalance.com

Thursday Gouda Cheese Market

Every Thursday morning just outside of the Waag in the Markt Square, opposite the old City Hall, you will see the golden wheels of Dutch cheese actively traded as they have been for over 900 years.

The market is one of the most popular attractions in the Netherlands. There you will get a chance to see the cheese carted by horse and carriage and the entertaining local tradition of hand-slap, or “handjeklap” negotiations when trading the cheese. It is all theatre though as the performance is a show for tourists.

The Cheese Market is open every Thursday from the beginning of April until the end of August from 10.00 a.m. – 12.30 p.m., with the exception of Kingsday (Koningsdag), and Ascension Day.

At stalls within the market, and throughout the historic city centre, you will find plenty of wonderful cheese stalls and shops where you can taste the creamy and delicious Gouda.  There are over 100 flavours to be found like garlic, whisky, beer, cumin and truffle.

Kamphuisen Syrup Waffle / Stroop Waffle Factory

Made in Gouda for over 200 years, the Kamphuisen Syrup Waffles have been a Dutch staple in Gouda ever since. Now the waffles are made on a fully automatic syrup waffle machine, but the recipe remains the same since 1810. I am a huge fan of freshly made Stroop Waffles and love the smell of the factory!

Check out the history of the Dutch treat and get a glimpse of how the famous waffle came to be in their 60 min. tour of the facility. You can even try your hand at making them yourself!

Location: Markt 69, Gouda, Netherlands | Website

Explore the Alleyways and Historic Hofjes of Gouda

Watch for these little secret courtyards and gardens called ‘Hofjes’ when walking the alleys and sidestreets of the city. The courtyards are traditionally shared gardens for the 17th-century houses in the city centre.

Keep on the lookout for Hofje Willem Vroesenhuis for a picturesque example while walking or bike touring through the city of Gouda.

Hofjes in Gouda

Visit the 4 old windmills that are left in Gouda

Around the city of Gouda, four Dutch icons stand proudly: the Red Lion Windmill (Molen De Roode Leeuw), the Mill on the Castle (Molen ’t Slot), the Merry-go-round Mill (De Mallemolen) and the De Haastrechtse molen.

Get a chance to see a working windmill and learn about the history of these curious Dutch workhorses.

You can learn more about the windmills of Gouda as well as download a walking tour for free (it is in Dutch so you may need to google translate it) at the Goudsemolens website.

Relaxation in Stunning Architecture – Spa Gouda

Originally constructed in 1922 as a bathhouse for schoolchildren, the beautiful building was designed in the Amsterdam School style that was made popular in the 1920s. The Roman Bath pool area of the Spa features especially beautiful architecture making you feel like you are in an ancient Roman bathhouse.

Outside in their extensive Hofje (Courtyard), their Inner city garden is a tranquil oasis with a plunge pool for use after the Suana. The Spa Gouda Website. | Lange Groenendaal 79 Gouda, Netherlands

How to get to Gouda by Train

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport to Gouda is a little under an hour by train. The easiest way to go is via Utrecht and the cost is about € 13 for a second-class ticket. If you choose this route, you might want to plan to check out the incredible city of Utrecht or see Castle de Haar which is in the area.

To find train service in the Netherlands simply go to ns.nl the official Dutch railway site to plan your trip.

FAQ for Gouda

What is the ‘VVV’ in Dutch cities?

They are the official local tourist offices throughout the Netherlands. They will be happy to guide you on your tour of the city. Tip: Google ‘VVV’ and the Dutch city of your choice and you will find plenty of local information!

Does Gouda still have a functioning cheese market?

No, unfortunately, it is just a reenactment. There are actual working markets in Woerden, however, they lack the theatre and entertainment value of the Thursday Gouda Market. The amazing cheese can be found in many of the excellent cheese shops in the Gouda, however, saving you from the lacklustre cheese at Schiphol airport!

Can you bring Gouda Cheese on your flight home?

Depending on your home country you will need to be careful when deciding to bring back cheese. The best quality aged, unpasteurized Gouda may not be allowed for import into your home country. It is not allowed in my home country of Canada. Airport merchants and cheese shops can help you with info as well as your home country’s department of agriculture.

What is the difference between stroop waffles and syrup waffles?

Everyone in the Netherlands is familiar with the syrup waffle and at one time or another has sunk their teeth into one of these biscuits from Gouda. The syrup waffle was invented for the poor who could not afford more expensive biscuits. The oldest recipe discovered in Gouda dates back to the 19th century.

You may find the delicious Dutch treat ‘Stroopwafel’ referred to as both a stroop waffle or syrup waffle. The terms refer to the same syrup and waffle-based cookie, invented over 200 years ago in Gouda.

Conclusion

I find the city of Gouda truly one of the most charming places to visit in South Holland for a quick overnight stay or a lovely day trip. Tour Gouda for the picturesque gateways and arches, narrow medieval streets and scenic canals.

What the city lacks in big touristy sites like the museums of Amsterdam and The Hague, the city makes up for in picturesque beauty and unique charm. Tiny winding streets offer views of the lovely small houses, each so well kept with many a hidden alleyway and skinny streets far too small for any modern car to traverse.

Let us know below if you’ve been to or live near Gouda and have great places or experiences to share!

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